Road to Fez

(Click on to enlarge, back arrow in top left to return)

Leaving Chefchaouen for Fez we thought we'd try some small roads on the map. The one we tried led us into beautiful countryside where there was a mule for every man, woman and child! The people we passed were friendly, smiling and waving. Except one teenage girl. We slowed down. I had the idea to offer her a lift (we'd picked up a few people during our car journey). She stopped dead in her tracks and quickly turned back the way she'd come. She looked frightened. I felt stupid. Of course, a girl or woman could never get in a car with a stranger.

We saw several fields that were separated by cactus hedges - many with agave. But no tequila!

The country road led back to the 'main' road about 20 km from Fez. Then just before a right curve in the road we were directed off the road onto another country road. Lots of Arabic explanation! We went through stunning hilly farmland. Olive trees planted on steep slopes. Grazing livestock. And mules.

When we returned to the main road we were about 25 km from Fez! The reason for the detour became apparent. The road continued through steep farmland and we passed three or four spots where the road was crumbling away downhill. No markers or warning at all. We came around a curve and the two lanes became one and the downhill lane was a sloping hole! It would have been deadly after dark.

Fez is very impressive on first sight. It is built in a hilly area and the two towns - the ancient medina and la ville nouvelle - are completely separate. There's lots of green space between them and the countryside is visible from both.

I find parts of the medina claustrophobic and dirty. Most pathways are about four feet wide. When a mule or a man bearing an oversized load comes through the only thing to do is flatten yourself against the wall. Lots of mule and horse dung and rotting vegetables. Mules up close give off a powerful odour! Ian still sees beautiful things.

A 13th century madrasa's (Islamic school) new "pupils"

A rare find: Pizza & beer!

The drug that keeps us going

Ian writes:  In Morocco, like everywhere, you can finding lodging from dingy hovels to Five Star  monotony.  We opted for riads, traditional townhouses with rooms facing onto an inner courtyard in the heart of the medina. Occasionally, we stayed at kasbahs, forts or citadels renovated into small hotels,   

While often lacking heat and enough light bulbs, they are full of charm and character and I love them.  Some are truly gems when the owner has enough funds and style to bring the old brick and tile to life.  A few nights, we swapped lodging for publicity photos.  Here’s a selection…

Riad Doha in Fes

Djane Kasbah in Tamegroute

Djane Kasbah

Kasbah Tobkal in Imlil

Dar Imlil in Imlil